Gourmet Traveller Wine Magazine

Best Country Restaurant List

Lake House continues to show why it is the country wine list by which we judge all others. It\'s not the biggest listing of wines, it\'s not the showiest and, while it acknowledges the classic wines of Europe, it\'s not European-centric.

No it offers the national benchmark for excellence because it cares. It cares about the ties that bind the kitchen and the food philosophy at the Lake House with wines grown and made locally. Chef Alla Wolf Tasker employs local produce and increasingly organic and biodynamic ingredients. The wine list shares the same approach, with a strong line up from Daylesford, Macedon and the surrounding areas. Organic and biodynamic wines are now designated and there\'s even a dip into the brave new world of so called natural wines.

The list is 31 pages, a manageable size, and carries a strong range of wines by the glass followed by a selection of half bottles and magnums. We like the way the Lake House Sommeliers care about the nonmainstream champagnes sourced from small houses, about Rieslings (Australian and imported), about rosés and light reds (one of the biggest listing in the country), about aged whites as well as aged reds, the way there is a greater selection of premier-cru Burgundy wines over grand cru (possibly better value we suspect). And there are the quirks and passion of recommending a local 10 year old pinot from Easter Peake (and it\'s a beauty) with Wolf Tasker\'s smoked eel.

That\'s confidence, and we\'ve got to say, delicious.

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