Weekend Australian Hot 50
Lake House - \"Hottest Classic\"
In one sense, this is a traditional restaurant. Bookings, tablecloths, entrees and mains, a heavy hitting wine list and a sense of being somewhere civilised, cosseting and special. And then you see the menu and realise you’re not in the land of the predictable any more.
Tangy, whey-whipped butter curd with housemade breads and ancient-grains crackers; fermented cucumber and buckwheat vinaigrette with your starter of sashimi tuna with sea lettuce, bonito aioli, nori crisps and mojama; or the late-winter lamb, a thing of joy with its warm salad of fillet, sweetbreads and black olive gracing the plate, little copper pan “hotpot” bubbling alongside. And this from a restaurant nudging its 30th birthday.
If anything, the largely regional food here is better than ever; the plating smarter and more contemporary, the flavours more focused and vibrant.
The room, too, is looking fresher, thanks to a recent makeover. Of course, maintaining standards at this level for so long takes serious investment, and it shows : serious investment in people, that is, by high-profile, hands-on owner Alla Wolf-Tasker and her family. From the pastured pig producer who supplies the cuts for a cut above charcuterie plate to the sommelier who makes everything right on the wine front, no one ever loses sight of the main game here: hospitality in spades.
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