The Age Good Food Guide

Sustainable produce? Kitchen gardens? Lake House has walked that talk for three decades.

Sustainable produce? Kitchen gardens? Lake House has walked that talk for three decades. Little dates this resort-abutting restaurant on Lake Daylesford, where sun reflects on to crisp linens, service sets the bar for the art and fat kookaburras flock to be fed. A recent renovation puts deck parties on the cards, and the cooking remains spry, rooted only in a concept of seasonality. Silky skinned bug agnoletti get a dust up from kimchi and kaffir lime; venison is embittered by coffee, countered, by quince; veal tartare is mounted on a bubbly seaweed crisp with shaved bonito curls like a one-bite twist on vitello tonnato — old dog dishes doing clever new tricks, with cute touches like sweets on sticks preceding (slightly fiddly) desserts of meringues, poached fruits with raggy sponges and choc curls. A la carte is optional, but go all-in for the deg — it\'s the kind of place where Grange and Ruinart line the impressive cellar, but where sommelier Meira Harel is as likely to deliver the amphora-driven funk of a Brash Higgins 2014 Zibibbo. The mission to impress continues with success.

PRO TIP Book the new 40-seat dining room for a party with lake views.


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